Tyne Traveling in Newcastle

I’m feeling all the feels! 

I’m chilling in Newcastle upon Tyne after a long, long day of traveling. 

I took off yesterday from Denver accompanied by none other than rock legend Robert Plant and the hundreds of others who boarded our British Air flight – curse those spoilers!

I landed in London, took the train to Paddington then another train to King Cross then boarded another train for a 4hr trek up north to Newcastle which is just about 60 miles south from the Scottish border. 

This is a bit of a pilgrimage for me. 

My grandad – William Kerridge – is from this city – the Pittsburgh of England; the land of ship building, coal mining and other back-breaking works. This city has powered England since Roman times and served as a buffer from those warring killers in kilts – the Scots. 

The last time I was here was in the mid 1960s when soot was in the air, the coal coated buildings were as gray as the skies and my grandad’s family home had no modern facilities. His brothers laughed their asses off when I was told my tiny ass had to go outside to the “privie” if I had to go to the loo. Yes, even decades after the War, indoor plumbing was rare in these parts. Progress was slow to come to the poorest parts of the great North. 

Today, Newcastle is a bustling modern city fueled with a sense of new energy coming from the university, modern galleries and new immigrants.

The streets are lined with restaurants for every taste – Indian, Greek, Thai, Italian and more. Luckily they blend in and add to the glorious architecture of this city. 

The centerpiece here is the Newcastle Castle – built in the Norman times (that’s the 12th century for those of you who can’t tell the difference between Norman, Elizabethan, or Georgian – no diss intended). 

I had an amazing view of its remains from my hotel room. 

I wandered through the castle grounds, then strolled up to St Nicholas Cathedral also built in the 12th century.

I met a volunteer there, Fiona who told me about their jolly St Nick – who, they say despite him being from Turkey, is believed to be the inspiration of the mythical fat white guy dressed in furs and a red puffer jacket who visits children every year on Christmas Eve. 

I told Fiona it’s a great story, but I’ve heard many, many versions of St Nick, tho this one is a new one for me. I’m definitely going to repeat it many times.

My destination today was the Laing Art Gallery where I wanted to see a special exhibit featuring Joseph Mallory William Turner, the English artist whose gift is bringing light to life.

Known as William Turner, he is simply England’s most famous painter. 

Walking the streets here and along the quay fills my heart with memories of my beloved and brave grandad. 

He left his coal mining family for the British Army. Stationed in Jamaica, he met and married my grandmother, then as newlyweds they were shipped to Alexandria, Egypt where my mom was born. He served in the RAF during War World 2 where he was captured at Dunkirk and held as a POW for the entire war at that infamous, hellish prison – Auschwitz. 

He never talked about the War or the unspeakable existence he and the others witnessed and endured – instead he focused on his family – five kids and his oldest and greatest grandkid – me! 

I will forever hold dear his memory and his bravery for leaving his childhood home in Newcastle. His departure from here created a dynamic he could never imagine; His five children grew up – two would graduate college, two would marry and immigrate to America, and one would be honored by Queen Elizabeth II as a MBE – a Member of the Order of the British Empire, the third highest award before knighthood or damehood. 

So granddad – this journey is for you. I know you’re bursting with pride and joy for your legacy and for your town on the Tyne.